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Fitting of … |
How to check it … |
Notes .. |
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Helmets |
Make sure you measure your head and get the appropriate
sized helmet, also that it has a CE EN1078 or
SNELL B.95 kite mark. The helmet must be worn so that
it is level on the head, just above the eyebrows. When the
straps are done up it should fit snugly. The rear strap
should meet the front strap just under your ear near the
hinge of your jaw. All straps should be equally tight and
free from slack. A test for this is that you should only be
able to get two fingers between the straps and your chin.
The helmet should not restrict vision or hearing in any way
as it may prevent you from seeing or hearing approaching
traffic or any warning signals from other road users. |
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Which bike is right for you? |
ROAD RACING BIKES:
Designed for use on paved roads (opposed to track-racing
bikes designed for tracks), road racing bikes are designed
for speed. They have a lightweight frame made of aluminum or
carbon. Riders usually sit at an incline, crouched toward
the handlebars in a streamlined position. |
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OFF ROAD BIKES:
Mountain bikes have the weight and tread you need to move
around unpaved areas. They can have tires more than 1.75
inches wide, up to 27 speeds, toe clips to keep your feet on
the pedals, and often come with a dense foam seat/saddle
that has some stitching to keep you from slipping around
while you ride. |
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HYBRID BIKES:
Hybrid bikes make great all-purpose bicycles. Hybrids allow
riders to sit in a more comfortable upright position than
mountain bikes, lightweight frames make them perfect for use
on pavement, and they can handle light off-roading on dirt
and gravel. |
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CITY/COMMUTING BIKES:
A relatively new development although an old idea. The basic
ingredients for this style are; frame similar to a racing
bike, plenty of gears but not the ultra low gears found on
Hybrids and mountain bikes, straight bars like hybrids/MTBs
to give the comfortable more upright position, slim fast
tarmac tyres. It is ideally suited to commuting as long as
you don't have masses of gear to carry. And of course there
are the folding bikes which are ideal for taking on trains
into town in the first instance, one of the most popular
being manufactured by Brompton ~ check out all your options
at
www.foldingbikes.co.uk
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COMFORT CRUISERS:
Comfort bikes have the same sporty look as mountain bikes,
but let riders sit more upright for superior comfort.
Although they will not go as fast as a hybrid bike or deal
with rough terrain as well as a mountain bike, they work
great for beginners, commuters, or people who want to take a
ride through the park. |
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BMX:
Older kids and teenagers love BMX bikes, which have the look
of a motocross dirt bike. They have higher handlebars than
road bikes and mountain bikes and the frames look small
compared to the rider. Be careful though, if they are too
small then they will, as per the advice given re the frame
size, put a lot of unnecessary pressure on their knees and
ankles giving them grief later. |
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CHILDREN'S BIKES:
Bikes geared toward younger kids have a small frame and
raised handlebars fit a child's body. They also include a
spoke guard and coaster brakes that allow a child to stop
when pedalling backwards. |
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More unusual choices! |
RECUMBENT BICYCLES:
Recumbent bikes allow riders to sit in a chair-like seat
lower to the ground than traditional elevated seats.
Although some people may be taken aback by the
unconventional look, recumbent bikes offer riders a
comfortable place to sit back and relax.
TANDEM BICYCLES: Great for a day in the park, tandem
bikes have enough room for two or more people. Share your
pedal power!
SPECIAL NEEDS BICYCLES: For FREE up-to-date advice
golooksee at
www.velovision.co.uk After all, The benefits of
cycling for the disabled are just the same as for the
able-bodied. |
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For cycling in those really hilly
areas .. |
ELECTRIC ASSISTED BIKES:
There are various models around which vary in price and
capacity - amongst the names are PowaCycle, Powabyke and
Giant but beware- there is a legal aspect here which is
this, electric bikes are still bicycles, so have no road
tax, no insurance, no MOT, no license plates, etc. To
comply with this, they have to be limited to a maximum speed
under power of 15mph (although you can pedal faster than
this if you want, of course) and an average power of 200W
(250W for an electric tricycle). At present in the UK, both
E-bikes and Pedelecs are covered by this, although there are
moves to make E-bikes conform to the same regulations as
mopeds. If you are thinking of getting such a bike keep an
eye on
www.whycycle.co.uk |
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Frame size |
Are you able to stand astride the bike just in front of the
saddle, with your feet flat on the ground and at least 3cm
clearance between the top tube and crotch? |
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Saddle height |
When sitting on the saddle with one foot on either pedal at
it's lowest point, your knee should only be slightly bent or
depending on the type of bike and the position of the pedals
as that can differ, perhaps with your leg straight … you
should be able to touch the ground though albeit on tip toe
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Tyres |
Are both tyres pumped up so you can barely squeeze the
sidewalls between your finger and thumb and do that have at
least 3mm of tread without being cracked or split? Finally
nothing should be rubbing against the tyre when the wheels
are turning |
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Wheels |
Quick releases must be firmly closed with the levers not
exposed and wheel nuts should be be tight with the wheels
centralised in the fork and the frame. The rims should not
touch the brake blocks nor the tyre the frame. |
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Spokes |
Spokes should not be corroded or loose and if any are bent
or missing, they should be replaced immediately. |
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Handlebars |
The stem should not exceed the maximum extension height mark
(the mark should not be visible). Turn the bars gently side
to side, the stem must stay aligned with the front wheel
fork. |
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Saddle and seat post |
The saddle should not move either up or down or side to
side. It should however either be level or point slightly
downwards. Also check maximum height mark on the seat post
has not been exceeded at all - again it should not be
visible. |
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Frame |
Check the forks have no signs of accident damage such as
wrinkled paint near the top of the forks. The alignment of
the forks should follow the same line or appear to travel
forwards of the head tube. On folding bikes, ensure frame
clamps are firmly closed. |
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Pedals |
Check they are complete .. No missing rubbers, no excessive
wear and two orange reflectors. Ensure they are fastened
securely to the cranks. |
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Brakes |
When applying the brakes, pulling the levers back hard
making sure nothing 'gives'. Cables must not be frayed and
brakes must make contact with the rim before the lever is
pulled back more than one third of it's travel. Also can
you reach and apply both brakes comfortably? Excessive
effort should not be required and the position of the brake
levers reviewed subject to the type of handle bars in use.
Lastly check the brake blocks - they should wear evenly [if
they are not touching or travelling under the wheel rims]
but do need changing every so often to be effective after a
while. The metal shoe must NOT touch the rim. |
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Chain |
The chain should be lightly lubricated with no evidence of
rust [making it prone to breaking] and should not come off
the front chain wheel[s] or come off and jam between the
smallest rear sprocket and the frame. The play in the chain
should not exceed 25mm at it's mid-point between front and
rear sprockets. |
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Gears |
Go through the gears to ensure the derailleur doesn't foul
the wheel and with hub gears, check they do not slip in
which case they may need to be adjusted by your local cycle
shop. |
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Lights (if fitted) |
Check that lights are firmly attached and cannot slide off
or fall off and swing into a wheel. Be especially careful
of lights attached to the front forks. Front lamps tend to
flatten their batteries slightly faster than rear lamps as
the bulb would generally be of a higher wattage. Some
headlamps (better quality ones generally) run at 6volts (4 x
AA cells), not 2.4volts (2 x C cells). These headlamps tend
to last longer on a set of batteries for an almost identical
cost per set of batteries. Whether LEDs make suitable front
lights is debateable. Unlike filament bulb lights, LEDs do
not throw a beam of light which would sufficiently light up
your path. LEDs are more about being seen that actually
seeing. UK Law changed in 2005 to permit the use of
"flashing" LED's but above all CHECK THOSE BATTERIES!! If
you have flat batteries you've got a problem especially if
you do a lot of cycling at dusk or in the dark winter
evenings! |
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Reflectors |
By law you MUST have a red rear reflector fitted … there
should be reflectors on each of the wheels and two orange
reflectors on both pedals plus a white reflector on the
front of the bike. |
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I HOPE THIS HELPS A LITTLE !! However please be aware ~
Carrying out these checks
does not
guarantee that a bike is safe, only |
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that it is in an acceptable condition for a short ride
.. We recommend that you have your bicycle serviced and
maintained |
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by a
properly qualified professional. |
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